Guide to Big Bend National Park


A land of meetings, Big Bend National Park bridges not just countries and cultures, but ecosystems and geography. Nestled in the Rio Grande River’s northward turn, the park lies on the U.S.–Mexico border. Native Mexican-American culture mixes with pioneer cowboy development. Likewise the sky island mountains of Chisos Basin swoop down and mingle with the desert river corridor. Mountain lions and black bears neighbor javalinas and tarantulas. Geology, wildlife, culture—see it all in this one stop shop of a park.

All 800,000 acres of Big Bend National Park are largely defined by the Rio Grande River to the south and the Sierra Del Carmen range to the north and east. The west is largely open to desert plains. The Chisos Mountains become the centerpiece of this large park, making Big Bend among the few national parks to completely encompass an entire mountain range.

As the highpoint of the region, the Chisos Mountains act as a gathering point for the two entrances. The Persimmon Gap Entrance Station in the north and the Maverick Junction Entrance Station in the west both funnel into the Chisos Mountains and branch off to various attractions. Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive takes off southward around the Chisos to Costolon and the iconic Santa Elena Canyon. Chisos Basin Road heads further up into the mountains to—you guessed it—Chisos Basin. And Rio Grande Village Road runs southeast to Rio Grand Village and the banks of the Rio Grande River and the park’s only port of entry into Mexico. Isolated in the Chihuahuan Desert far from civilization, the park has learned the art of self-sufficiency. Altogether, Big Bend contains 5 visitor centers, 4 camp stores, 3 campgrounds, 2 gas stations and 1 lodge.

Must-see highlights in Big Bend

1

Santa Elena Canyon Trail—Perhaps the most landmark in Big Bend National Park, Santa Elena Canyon is the point where the Rio Grande carves through a 1,500-foot bluff. This 1.7-mile roundtrip trail is one of the most popular hikes in Big Bend due to its incredible views, accessibility, and relatively short distance. It’s perfect for those who want to experience the grandeur of the park without committing to a long, strenuous hike. Back in the shade of the canyon the temperature drops dramatically making a perfect escape from the desert sun. Consider visiting late in the day as afternoon sunlight streams through the canyon walls.

2

Balanced Rock—North of the Chisos Mountains on the desert floor, the Grapevine Hills hide arguably Big Bend’s most iconic landmark, Balanced Rock. A massive boulder perched 20 feet up forms a window on the surrounding desert landscape. Though the 1-mile trail is relatively easy with clearly marked arrows, the road to the trailhead is rough. Only attempt with a high-clearance vehicle. RVs, passenger cars and minivans are highly discouraged. Because it is well-exposed to the desert sun, consider visiting for sunrise or sunset with a headlamp.

3

Lost Mine Trail—Rising from the Chisos Basin, Lost Mine Trail is one of the most, if not the most, scenic hike in the park. Beginning in juniper, oak and pine forests, the trail switchbacks up the ridgeline offering stunning views of Juniper Canyon and Casa Grande. Atop the ridge, the trail continues along a beautiful garden-like stroll among grasses and shrubs overlooking the jagged surrounding peaks. This hike is gorgeous at sunrise.

4

Emory Peak Trail—In the heart of the Chisos Mountains, Emory Peak Trail climbs 5 miles one-way to reach the 7825-foot summit of Emory Peak, the highest point in the park. The last quarter mile turns up steeply with the final pitch featuring an exposed rock scramble, but the sweeping 360º views from the top are worth the thrill. If ascending in the early morning, be aware of mountain lion activity. Hike with another person if possible and do not wear headphones.

5

Hot Springs Trail—Near Rio Grande Village, thermal springs lie on the banks of the Rio Grande River. These hot springs have been used for thousands of years by indigenous people, and more recently, settlers and visitors to the area. The springs are a simple quarter-mile walk from the Hot Springs parking lot. To reach the parking lot, follow a two-mile gravel road off of Rio Grande Village Road. Large vehicles and RVs are restricted from this primitive road. Watch for flooding and high river levels when attempting to visit the Hot Springs.

Best time to visit Big Bend

Located in the Chihuahuan Desert, sun is plentiful in Big Bend National Park meaning temperatures dictate the best time to visit the park. In general, summer is the hottest, rainiest and least busiest season Because elevation affects temperature in Big Bend, it is assumed that the river elevations typically run 10–20ºF hotter than the mountain elevations.

  • Spring (March to May): With pleasant temperatures and plenty of sun, spring is the park’s busiest time of year. The park sees little to no rainfall during spring, making this an excellent time for hiking, stargazing and boating.
  • Summer (June to September): Summer in Big Bend can be extremely hot, especially in lower elevations like the Chihuahuan Desert along the Rio Grande. June typically records the hottest temperatures, with daytime highs frequently reaching 100°F or more. And still it can feel much hotter in the sun. Even in the higher elevations, temperatures can be in the 80s to 90s°F. Because of the extreme heat, summer is the least crowded season of the year. However, summer is also the rainy season. July through September brings local heavy thunderstorms and possible flash flooding. If timed right, the rainy season can be a delightful time to visit since afternoon and evening rains often cool the desert and revitalize vegetation.
  • Fall (October to November): Fall offers mild, comfortable temperatures, especially compared to the scorching summer months. Daytime temperatures are usually in the 70s to low 80s°F, and the nights are cooler, making it great for hiking and camping.
  • Winter (December to February): Winter in Big Bend is cooler, with daytime temperatures ranging from the 50s to 60s°F, and nighttime temperatures often dropping to 30°F or lower. Lower elevations along the river see the biggest temperature swings from day to night, whereas the mountains tend to be more consistent. Yet, while snow is rare, it is possible in these higher elevations.

How long should I visit Big Bend?

Big Bend is a rather large park, with long drives between each section. Consider spending at least 3–4 days to travel to/from Big Bend and fully absorb all the park has to offer. With airports 3–4 hours away, half a day is easily eaten up with commuting to and from the park. In addition, some of the longer hikes could eat up a better part of the day, so plan to spend a day in one section rather than driving around from one point to another. Most of the attractions are in the southern half of the park near the Chisos Mountains or along the Rio Grande.

Getting to Big Bend

If visiting Big Bend, plan to drive. As one of the most remote parks in the lower-48, Big Bend National Park is not easy to access. The closest airports are found in Odessa-Midland and El Paso. Midland International Air and Space Port (MAF) is nearest commercial airport at 230 miles away while El Paso International Airport (ELP) is still 320 miles away.

There are 3 main highways leading to the park. Most people enter along Highway 385 from Marathon, and approach from the north through the Persimmon Gap Entrance Station. But State Highway 118 from Alpine in the northwest and Farm-to-Market Route 170 from Presidio in the west converge at Study Butte just 5 miles outside of the Maverick Junction Entrance Station offering another approach to the park.

When driving to and around the park, services are few and far between. While the park offers stores and services, selections can be limited. Make sure to have plenty of gas, food, water and supplies as you travel. If you prepare well and take advantage of the available services you will never be stranded.

Where to stay in Big Bend

Lodging—The Chisos Mountain Lodge is the only hotel-style accommodation within the park. Centrally located in the Chisos Basin, the lodge offers the perfect basecamp to visit the rest of the park. Equipped with 72 rooms, on-site dining and a gift shop, the lodge is open year round and conveniently located near the Chisos Basin Visitor Center.

Campgrounds—Big Bend National Park hosts 4 campgrounds within its boundaries. Each offer unique benefits. Chisos Basin Campground is centrally located and typically has cooler temperatures. Cottonwood Campground is remote and quiet. And Rio Grande Village Campground sits conveniently on the banks of the Rio Grande. There no first come, first served sites available. Reservations for the campgrounds are available through Recreation.gov. Reservations for the RV Park are booked online through Aramark.

When should I book?

It is always wise to book as far ahead as possible (as early as 6 months prior) during peak winter months (November 1–April 30) as the lodge and campgrounds often reach full capacity. However, to accommodate late bookings, both Chisos Basin Campground and Cottonwood Campground reserve a number of sites for short-term release. These sites are only open for reservations 14 days prior to visiting. The rest of the campsites tend to book up 3–4 months out.

How much should I budget?

A 3–4 day trip to Big Bend booked 4 months in advance can cost roughly $500–$700 depending on your required needs. Here is a range of what to expect:

Roundtrip Airfare to Odessa-Midland$250–$350
Car Rental$70–$100/day (not including taxes/fees)
Chisos Mountains Lodge$250/night (not including taxes/fees)
Campgrounds$16/night
RV Park$36/night (not including taxes/fees)
Meals$15–$20/meal
Entrance Fee$30/vehicle

Packing list for Big Bend

Each park requires different gear for its unique characteristics. For Big Bend National Park, we wouldn’t want to be caught without hiking shoes, extra water/food, sunscreen, sunglasses, wide-brimmed hat, water shoes or sturdy sandals, and a water bottle.

Want to learn more? Check out our detailed trip report for a peek into our trip to Big Bend.

For more detailed information on Big Bend National Park, visit the official park website.

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