One by one they scamper down the tree and follow her into the woods. We can’t believe our eyes. The park might as well have rolled out a red carpet. Never in all our visits have we witnessed a scene like this.

August 7–8, 2024

It’s the afternoon and we are driving east on Interstate 40 from Nashville, Tennessee, to our friend Dan’s house in Black Mountain, North Carolina. Arriving in time for dinner we are greeted with good southern cooking and comfortable conversation about our plans ahead. Evidence of black bear activity in the neighborhood sets expectations high for wildlife viewing in the park. Getting a good night’s sleep, we wake up early the next morning and venture into the park to avoid the crowds.

Our first stop is Big Creek Trail, a popular hike with iconic mossy boulders and rushing water amidst dense green foliage. Here, a most unfortunate event occurs. With poor footing, I slip on a mossy rock and slam into the boulder. Attempting to catch myself, I reach out only to pop my arm and dislocate my shoulder. The shock leaves me lightheaded and immobile for a few minutes as I relocate my shoulder and reorient myself. Favoring my arm and scraping together my pride I carry on, determined to not let it spoil the trip. I’m in one of America’s most iconic parks, after all! The more I think about the beauty around me, the higher my spirits lift urging me on to explore more of this rugged, but beautiful land. A lame shoulder is a small price to pay.

About a mile or two up the Big Creek Trail, we pull off towards the creek and find ourselves in an idyllic swimming pond fed by picture perfect falls, dubbed Midnight Hole. Surprisingly, we are the only ones in sight, a rare moment in early-august. Taking advantage of the solitude, I wade into shallows, the cool refreshing water lapping off the trail dust from my legs. Snapping a few photos of the tranquil setting, we make ready to leave. At this moment, the crowds arrive. Perfect timing. Roughly twenty people come ready for a dive in the cool deep waters just as we get ready to hike out. But, naturally we linger to watch a few apprehensive cliff-jumpers before hiking back to the car.

With waterfalls on mind, Dan takes us next to Deep Creek to tour three additional falls. The trail is abuzz with people tubing down the creek—what looks to be a fun activity, no doubt. However, a bit raucous and busy for our liking, we enjoy the quietude and seclusion of Juney Whank Falls first which takes us on a side trail away from the commotion of noisy floaters along Deep Creek. Dan also quickly shows us Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls, two more waterfalls back along Deep Creek—beautiful, but busy with swimmers and tubers.

After a bite of lunch in Waynesville, we make for Cataloochee on a mission to spot elk. To our surprise, this task is easier than expected. Upon descending into the valley, we spot a lone bull elk casually walking along the roadside, a perfect photo opportunity. Amazed at this experience, we venture further into Cataloochee unaware our fortunes will only get better. A herd of elk are grazing in the fields surrounding Caldwell Place. Completely at ease around people, the curious elk investigate the parked cars at their leisure. The setting sun makes a perfect backdrop to the magnificent animals grazing nearby. Awestruck with such a close elk encounter, we tease Dan that we will treat him to dinner if he can deliver the same experience with black bears.

Content with the day, we head back up and out of the valley to the Blue Ridge Parkway for sunset. Though banks of clouds mask the setting sun, rays pierce around the mist and light up the layered ridgelines in that iconic Smoky Mountain fashion, proving a rough start to the day need not define how it ends.

The next morning we rise well before the sun to drive up Newfound Gap Road for sunrise. Parking at the Newfound Gap Overlook just before the sun rises, we survey the best spots for viewing. The sky turns blue, then pink, then soft orange as the sun greets the land. Again, a bank of clouds shrouds the sunrise, but the effects are still breathtaking nonetheless. Clouds of mist swirl up from the valleys, intermingling with ridgeline trees as the day warms up, reminding us why they call it the Smoky Mountains.

Driving north down the gap, we stop at Alum Cave Trail to hike arguably the most scenic path of the park. A short 2.5 mile trail takes hikers past babbling streams, through rocky caverns, up 1,200 feet to panoramic vistas of mist-laden ridges, a regular smorgasbord of Smoky Mountain experiences. On the way down we peruse the various stream banks for salamanders, scoring two adults and one juvenile—a first for me.

After lunch, we regroup at Sugarlands Visitor Center before driving around the park to Cades Cove. Cades Cove is perhaps a national park all on its own. Replete with wildlife, history, and nature trails, the 11-mile one way scenic drive rolls along retired homesteads perfectly situated below soft blue mountain ranges and thick forests. Various pullouts allow visitors to explore cabins, barns, and fields of days gone by. Dan directs us toward our first such stop along this route: John Oliver Place, a singular cabin in the woods—the first and oldest structure built by European settlers in Cades Cove he tells us.

Walking down the path we hear rumors of black bears in the area. Of course with how skitterish black bears can be, experience tells us we have likely already missed them. But lo and behold, twenty paces down the trail a group of visitors stand gathered around a mulberry tree pointing and whispering. Approaching closer we find a small female black bear feasting on fallen berries. Amazed and elated at spotting a wild black bear we whip out our cameras completely unaware of the three cubs in the branches over our head. We glance at Dan. A smug grin rests on his face. For an hour we blissfully watch the bears gorge themselves on mulberries as visitors come and go. Eventually, mama bear signals her cubs. One by one they scamper down the tree and follow her into the woods. We can’t believe our eyes. The park might as well have rolled out a red carpet. Never in all our visits have we witnessed a scene like this.

After buying Dan’s dinner, we drive home recounting the experiences we’ve had in the park. It’s rare to feel so accomplished after a park visit, yet here we are basking in the memories of unparalleled encounters, Great Smoky Mountains delivering well beyond our expectations.