Miles and miles of sweeping granite monoliths jeweled with sapphire lakes and emerald forests take our breath away.

August 29–31, 2024

Our visit to Kings Canyon begins with a backcountry foray from the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. After landing in Fresno, California, we hop in a car and drive five hours around to Onion Valley Trailhead to approach the alpine wilderness from the east through Kearsarge Pass. From the trailhead, the pass looms five miles ahead teasing us with the thought of a nice downhill once we reach the top. As we crest the pass, we get our first glimpse of the high Sierras. Living in Colorado tends to build in us a certain snobbish standard and expectation when it comes alpine scenery, but what lies here in the Sierras has even us raising our eyebrows. Miles and miles of sweeping granite monoliths jeweled with sapphire lakes and emerald forests take our breath away. A sense of rugged beauty overwhelms us as we blaze down the pass toward Bullfrog Lake, around Mount Rixford and up again through Glen Pass on our way to the highly-esteemed Rae Lakes—a total of 12 miles for the day.

Rae Lakes is known as one of the most scenic stops along the 211-mile John Muir Trail. We drop down into the bowl by mid-afternoon. The weather could not be any more cooperative. Bright and sunny and no storms predicted, temperatures hover in the 70’s during the day and 50’s by night. We find an idyllic spot with a view worth millions and pitch camp. That evening we explore the nooks and crannies of Rae Lakes hoping to spot a bear or some form of wildlife activity. The golden light illuminates the late-summer grasses and pine trees in a storybook glaze. Fin Dome, a granite rock feature in the north, stands prominently reminding us we are not in the typical Colorado Rockies, but the rugged Sierra Nevadas. With a new moon, the night brings equally mythical feelings as the Milky Way pops out perfectly over Mount Rixford in a display of starry wonder. Never before have we seen so many stars in one sky, so we fall asleep looking up at them. These are the times I wish I didn’t have to take my contact lenses out.

The next morning brings a cheery yellow sunrise and promises of a new day of wonder. We pack up camp and head out, but not before a quick dip in the lake to freshen up. Having travelled the extent of our route, our next camp destination is Kearsarge Lakes on the way back to Onion Valley Trailhead. In a matter of seven miles, we make it back up and over Glen Pass again and find ourselves at Kearsarge Lakes. If we had thought Rae Lakes was stunning, it was obviously because we had not seen Kearsarge Lakes. A chain of five to six lakes lace the jagged ridge of Kearsarge Pinnacles, the perfect backdrop to these pristine alpine waters.

We set up camp for the night and catch a quick nap in the afternoon. As the westering sun sinks lower, we find a nearby secret perch overlooking the Kearsarge Lakes, Bullfrog Lake, and the valley below. With a clear line of sight down the valley we watch as mountain after mountain descends into a fiery alpenglow before succumbing to blue hour. Naturally thinking the day can’t get any more beautiful, we head back to the tent to get some rest. But as we do, the stars make another spectacular appearance, compelling us to stay awake a while longer. Capturing our best nightscape photos, we prepare for the next day which requires an early start back to the trailhead.

Waking up before sunrise, we pack up and begin our trek back up Kearsarge Pass and the five miles back to our car. Our urgency in exiting the park comes from a hope of scoring two permits for Mount Whitney. To do so, we must reach the Eastern Sierra Visitor Center in Lone Pine, California, by noon as they release the unclaimed permits for the following day. Wrapping up our time in the backcountry is always a bit mournful, but new adventures ahead give us enough drive to make it back to the car despite our creeping wanderlust.

Unfortunately, our wishes are not met as all Whitney permits are claimed with none left over. So adjusting plans, we drive six hours back around to the western slope and prepare to enter the more cultivated side of the park. After spending two days in Sequoia National Park, we make our way to Kings Canyon National Park Scenic Byway, a windy paved road that runs past General Grant Tree in Grant Grove Village and dead ends at Cedar Grove. Exploring this area, we first stop at Roaring River Falls and Zumwalt Meadow, the park’s main attractions. We also make a quick side trip to Muir Rock, where it is said John Muir made some of his most memorable conservation speeches.

It is no wonder Muir was in love with the place. Granite walls dappled in sunlight soar hundreds of feet above us as raging river waters churn below. We bid this park adieu and drive roughly an hour back to Fresno to catch our flight home. Easily one of the most memorable parks, we are grateful to be among the few willing to go the extra mile and discover the hidden backcountry of Kings Canyon National Park.