The scene is incredible. Waves of tiny sand grains amass into mounds and hills undulating over the landscape like ocean swells rising and falling.
June 9–10, 2023
Our plan was to spend two nights camping in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, but after a rare campsite in Pinon Flats Campground opens up, we make a spontaneous decision to hit Great Sand Dunes National Park on our way. It is a convenient combo as both parks are generally remote and difficult to reach but in close proximity to each other. The sun is still high in the sky at 4 p.m. as we drive north on Highway 150 towards the entrance station. Spirit rise in anticipation as we can already see the dunefield brightly punctuated against the deep blue backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. We are lucky to snag a campsite on a good-weather weekend in early June.
Pulling into the campground, we check in and locate campsite 23. With everything in order, we find a short connector trail from the campground to the dunes. The sun is already blinding at this altitude, but the light reflected from the dunes only adds to the intensity. We’re glad we remembered our polarized sunglasses from home. Slowly the vegetation from the foothills gives way to the ever-growing presence of sand. Soon only a few hardy shrubs stand strong in a sea of sand as we make our way out on the dunes. The scene is incredible. Waves of tiny sand grains amass into mounds and hills undulating over the landscape like ocean swells rising and falling. We’re drowning in an ocean without water.
As the afternoon wears on, clouds form overhead casting dramatic shadows to the already dynamic landscape. It’s apparent we are in for a rain shower, so we head back to the car to escape any potential lightning. On our way, we run into a herd of deer obviously familiar with people. Unafraid they graze among the sagebrush mere feet from the trail. Not sure what sunset will bring, we take a risk and drive outside the park 3 miles south to Zapata Falls Trail. This short 1-mile out-and-back trail leads to some spectacular hidden falls, but that’s not why we’ve come. Halfway along the trail, a lookout point offers fantastic views of the dunefield. We are grateful to find the sun breaks through the stormclouds just as we arrive at the overlook, bathing the dunes in golden light as dramatic rain clouds loom above.
Turning in for the night, we return to our camp and set our alarms for 4:30 a.m., an hour before sunrise. We rise in the dark and make our way to Dunes Parking area. Feeling our way in the dark, we venture on out into the dunes. Immediately, we are met with the last wet trickles of Medano Creek. Blue hour has begun and the scene is beautiful. Streaks of light reflected in the creekflow pop against the dark wet sand. Mount Herard stands in the distance waiting to greet the rising sun.
Wanting to be on the dunes for sunrise, we push on past the creek and start the early morning climb up the slopes. Each step up is a half-step back as the shifting sands slide under our weight. We feel the press of time as the sky lightens. Soon Mount Herard catches the first light of day. Then suddenly as in a flash, a crack of light shoots across the eastern mountains blasting the dunes in light. Their golden crests flash against the blue shadows creating abstract patterns of light and movement. We stop in our tracks. It’s a moment worth taking in.
After spending some time on the dunes marveling at the dramatic lightplay, we return downhill over Medano Creek and back to the car. We need to pack up our campsite, but it’s only 7 a.m. so we take a short detour and stroll along Monteville Nature Trail in search of wildlife. We never find any signs of animals, but the shaded creek bed is nice and cool amidst the spring vegetation, so we take our time finishing the small trail loop.
In order to make the most of our time in Black Canyon, we must pack up and head out of the park. Leaving a national park at 8 a.m. just feels wrong. We wish we could stay longer—maybe hike up Mosca Pass Trail, or try our luck along Medano Pass Primitive Road, or at the very least spend sunset on the dunes. But alas, that must be left for another time. At least the disappointment of leaving is mitigated for the moment by our anticipation for our next national park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.
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