45 minutes later, Old Faithful begins to grow restless. Then the steam gurgles with water followed by a large stream bursting up into the night sky kissing the big dipper framed neatly above it. Though the spectacle only lasts a couple minutes, the memory of a nightly eruption lingers in our minds.

September 9–12, 2024

It’s 5:00 a.m. and we take to the road for a ten hour drive from Colorado to Yellowstone National Park. Recommended for it’s abundant wildlife, our first stop is Lamar Valley in the northeast corner of the park. We approach the valley in the late afternoon from the Northeast Entrance. The westering sun is already drowning the autumn prairie lands in a baked yellow glow. Following Soda Butte Creek and Lamar River we cruise the road, eyes peeled for any hint of wildlife. Right around the confluence of the two streams, we hit our first bison jam as cars are parked on the road while a modest-sized herd passes by. Visitors hang out of windows and sunroofs snapping photos as the giants lumber past. A few miles down the road we are again stalled, this time by a family of antelopes grazing on the far side of the bank. Barely thirty minutes in and already encountering animals is a good sign.

Continuing counterclockwise around Grand Loop Drive, we make our way past Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris, and arrive at Madison, the site of our campground for the next three nights just as night falls. The next morning we wake to a gray cloudy sunrise. But eager to make the most of our time we hit the road and travel south to Midway Geyser Basin in search of the world-renowned Grand Prismatic Spring. The cold September air generates steam over the pool, making the spring hard to see, but the multicolored water still reflects in the foggy mist above the water adding a blue glow to the alien landscape.

After a quick breakfast we venture back north to Norris Geyser Basin to check out Steamboat Geyser, the world’s tallest active geyser capable of spewing hot water 300 feet in the air. With the last major eruption occurring on July 15, 2024, the geyser could be due for another eruption soon, but the unpredictable nature is not worth the patience so we move on with our day, resuming our drive north to Mammoth Hot Springs and the Albright Visitor Center. Along the way, a group of parked cars and photographers alerts us of a lone coyote on the hunt in a nearby field. Grabbing my telephoto lens, we park the car and jump out in time to capture some playful coyote behavior as she pounces through the grass in search of rodents.

A ranger at Albright Visitor Center suggests we hike Mount Washburn, a tall central peak offering 360-degree views of the park (and an occasional grizzly) and Hayden Valley, a wildlife hotspot for elk, antelope, and bison—both good plans for the afternoon. So we make our way down to Mount Washburn heading clockwise on the Grand Loop Drive via Tower-Roosevelt, but not before scoping out the iconic Mammoth Hot Springs nearby. A short boardwalk leads us up to the base of the infamous terraced mineral outcroppings cascading with hot water. The varied shades of orange and white mineral deposits give a prehistoric sense to the hike.

Back in the car, we head southeast to Mount Washburn. The morning clouds have dissipated and leave behind a bright blue sky, perfect for sightseeing from the summit. The climb to the peak begins at Dunraven Pass and ascends three miles through pine forest and alpine grass. With all the warnings of bear activity in the area, the beginning of the hike has us on edge careful not to cross paths with a grizzly. Several hikers warn us of a black bear and bighorn sheep they encountered along the trail, but the only sign of wildlife we saw was a fawn and several sage grouse pecking along the trail. Though gusty, the views atop Mount Washburn are unparalleled, offering a chance to rise above the trees and spot distant peaks, including the Tetons to the south.

With winds picking up we head back down the mountain and aim to reach Hayden Valley for sunset, hoping to see bull elk sparring. The eight-mile stretch of road through Hayden Valley is serene and idyllic, but apparently not conducive to elk for the only animals in view were herds of bison grazing and rolling in the dirt. In search of elk, we pivot plans and head back to Madison River expecting that area to be a better elk haven. The sun sets just as we pull up to the campground and walk to the water’s edge. No elk to be found. But a gorgeous golden sunset still makes the drive worth it.

Hoping to catch some astrophotography under Old Faithful, we drive south to Upper Geyser Basin. Along the way, blue hour sets in begging us to make a pitstop first in Lower Geyser Basin. The boardwalk leads us out to Clepsydra Geyser, a small but active display of spewing water. The column of steam stands bright catching the last light of day against the darkening sky. Soon night overtakes dusk and we return to our agenda down at Old Faithful.

We arrive and set up our gear along the boardwalk circumnavigating Old Faithful. Not knowing when the last eruption occurred, we wait patiently for the geyser to shoot into the stars at any moment. 45 minutes later, Old Faithful begins to grow restless. Then the steam gurgles with water followed by a large stream bursting up into the night sky kissing the big dipper framed neatly above it. Though the spectacle only lasts a couple minutes, the memory of a nightly eruption lingers in our minds.

The next and final full day in Yellowstone, we make for Lamar Valley once again hoping to spot elk and grizzlies. The Lamar River Trail and Cache Creek Trail come highly recommended so we take to the 32-mile trail system knowing we will turn around much earlier. The path follows Soda Butte Creek and joins the Lamar River soon after. One quarter-mile into the trip, a lone male antelope confidently grazes on the path welcoming us to the valley. Soon after a lone male bison trots down the hillside, across the path, and into the sagebrush sea offering excellent photography opportunities. But the highlight of the hike comes further downtrail when another antelope promptly poses and on the open prairie framed by the hills in the sunlight. We follow this antelope for about an hour and return to the car as stormy weather begins to roll in.

The afternoon brings much driving in and out of rain bursts. A window of good weather presents itself as we find ourselves near Canyon Village, so we stop at Brink of Lower Falls Trail and trek 600 feet down to the crest of the waterfall in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The torrent of water gushing over the edge turns to mist coating the rocks in a light spray before following the river further down the canyon. We spend the afternoon exploring the trails along the rim and end up at Inspiration Point for a carside dinner under sunset. The canyon walls once yellow turn a bright orange, rosy red, and finally dive into a soft purple as night falls on the park.

Still no elk sightings for the day, but as we drive back to the Madison Campground in pitch black, a ghostly figure pops out from the side of the road. Like a dream, we catch a glimpse of a bull elk with a full rack running alongside our car in the next lane over. And just as quickly as he appeared he disappeared into the forest, as if to taunt us with his elusive presence. The next morning starts the long drive back home. While disappointed at not photographing an elk during the rutting season, but that’s the nature of these park trips. We take what we are offered and make the most of it. So we still come away in high spirits at the many other animal encounters Yellowstone had to offer—a coyote hunt, a pronghorn chase, and many a bison herds—all worth the ten-hour drive upcountry.