Are you kidding me? I think to myself. How on earth have I been lucky enough to have two incredible wildlife encounters in just a couple of hours? This park is the best.
September 26–28, 2021
I’m not much for spontaneous living. Usually I need weeks if not months to plan an overnight trip anywhere, but a last-minute opening at Signal Mountain Campground caught my eye the other day. So with a little nudge from a friend, I find myself driving the 8.5 hours to Grand Teton National Park. Incidentally, this is my first solo trip, and perhaps that is what gives me a bit of anxiety in the first place. However, I book the campsite and without looking back pull out of my house early Saturday morning, making my way up to Wyoming.
Mid-afternoon, I cross through the Wind River Reservation along US-26 and crest the Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass. And that’s when I see it. A sight that makes me think the anxiety just might be worth it. The rough-sawn peaks of Mount Owen, Grand Teton, and Middle Teton cut above the horizon for the first time like a knife to paper. A carpet of forest and sagebrush sweeps across the scene as a line of golden aspen and cottonwood cut across denoting the Snake River. I can hardly keep my eyes on the road. Thankfully I have 25 miles to drink this sight in as I wind my way down to the Moran Entrance station.

Passing into the park, everywhere I look is an explosion of pure autumn color. I pull into Signal Mountain Campground on the banks of Jackson Lake thinking to myself Could I have really timed this any better? Checking into my campsite, I unload my gear and take off for Jenny Lake Visitor Center to stamp my passport and grab a map.

Once I gather my bearings I head off on Jenny Lake Loop Trail towards Moose Pond. I’m so focused on finding wildlife at Moose Pond, I hardly notice the rustling in the bushes next to the trail. Suddenly, a bright orange fox darts across my path and heads up trail as if to lead me to Moose Pond himself. I follow furtively careful to maximize my sighting and not scare him off. After a good 20 minutes in pursuit, I capture some final photos before he scampers into the underbrush. I look around to share the moment with others on the trail, but find I’m the only one around. I can’t believe that opportunity just landed in my lap.

I make my way to Moose Ponds, hoping for, of all things, a moose sighting, but walk away disappointed at the silence. But who am I to complain? I just followed a wild fox for 20 minutes on a well-traveled path. That’s enough to keep spirits high for a while. Returning to Jenny Lake, I explore the rocky shoreline a bit before returning to my car. I’ve been told, Schwabachers Landing is an excellent place to view wildlife along the Snake River so I drive down and around to the trailhead on US-191. The sun is about to set, casting golden hour across the Jackson Hole valley. The entire river scene is aflame with autumn color. The Tetons grace the background as ducks splash in the foreground riverbank.
Clearly, I’m not the only one with this idea. About 10 other photographers have also staked a claim along the riverbank trail awaiting sunset. I occupy myself with a view down the river to my right when suddenly like an army of machine guns, I hear the audible shutter clicks of all the photographers to my left. I look over just in time to find a large bull moose with a full rack lumbering out of the golden forest right as the sun is setting behind the Tetons. Are you kidding me? I think to myself. How on earth have I been lucky enough to have two incredible wildlife encounters in just a couple of hours? This park is the best. The moose pauses long enough for a drink from the river before sauntering back into the woods. The sun sets and I drive back to camp grinning from ear to ear. No one at home will believe this.

The next day, I wake up early before sunrise to recreate last night’s magic at Schwabachers Landing. All is quiet at the landing. No moose. But that’s no problem. I’m equally interested in capturing alpenglow on the Teton from this location anyway. I begin moseying up and down the trail waiting for the rising sun to ignite the mountains. After 20 minutes, the tip of Grand Teton turns rosy pink, then orange and sparks yellow as the new day begins. All up and down the river, there is not a bad photo of the scene. Everywhere I turn, trees perfectly frame the mountains whose colors are then reflected by the sweeping river current underneath. I’ve died and gone to heaven.
After a morning at Schwabachers Landing, I jump in the car and drive upriver to Oxbow Bend Turnout, a small pulloff overlooking a gorgeous bend in the Snake River with Mount Moran in the distance. Again, golden aspen line the shore across the water offering a brilliant contrast to the hazy blue sky. The afternoon is lazy as I catch up on sleep and explore the nearby aspen groves enveloped in golden confetti flitting down in patches of light and color. That evening I stop by Jackson Lake Dam and watch the sun set behind Mount Moran as evening fades from warm to cool before turning in for my last night in the park.

I spend my final morning searching the backroads for Mormon Row, anticipating a magnificent sunrise on the weathered homestead structures. Finally, after venturing further than expected, I come across the dirt parking lot. I hop out and follow the lead of a few other photographers who have already pitched their gear for sunrise. I find a decent spot and patiently await the sun too. Slowly a multitude of other photographers trickle in. To my dismay, I hear some choice words thrown about as grumpy photographers jockey for unobstructed positions in scene. Not exactly how I want to spend my morning. But in a short time as the light descends the peaks, everyone forgets about their troubles and takes in the beauty of the scene. Content with their work, one by one, each photographer packs up and heads out.
By 9:00 a.m., the testy photographers are replaced by families coming to explore the pioneer ruins, reminding me of the purpose of the parks. Catching the perfect photo is a fun challenge, but enjoying a moment of natural wonder and joy with family is what it’s all about. I return to camp, pack up my gear and begin the long drive home still in awe of my experiences in the park. I begin rummaging through my mind for all the photos I’m excited to edit when I return, inspired to share them with anyone and everyone. What a trip. I guess a little spontaneity does pay off after all.

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