We descend to the coast passing monstrous Redwood trunks standing tall in a thick verdant wall of underbrush. Ferns, mosses, hemlock, alder—the entire forest is an idyllic picture book of forest scenery.

July 27–30, 2024

The commute from the Medford Airport has us a little concerned as vast acreage of upland forest is left decimated by wildfires. But as we near the coast on Redwood Highway, the charred skeletons of trees give way to cooler, moist vegetation. It seems with each mile we drive the more lush and green the landscape becomes. Soon enough we enter Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park and make Hiouchi Visitor Center our first stop to gather our bearings before heading down coast to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. We descend to the coast passing monstrous Redwood trunks standing tall in a thick verdant wall of underbrush. Ferns, mosses, hemlock, alder—the entire forest is an idyllic picture book of forest scenery. A cool drink of water after a dusty, scorched upland drive.

We pull off Highway 101, the backbone of the park, and enter Elk Prairie Campground. Immediately, we are welcomed by a herd of thirteen wild bull elk casually posing in the afternoon prairie sun, so we must stop and snap a few photos. Only a few moments into our park visit and we already have our winning shots. Can this trip get any better? Apparently so.

The next morning we wake up early to hit the road for a timed entry into Tall Trees trail. Mist and sun mingle in the trees as we make our way up along Bald Hills Road and down into the Tall Trees parking lot. Due to the reservation parking at the trailhead, we feel we have the trail to ourselves, allowing us a leisurely walk among the coastal redwoods. Our first encounter with these giants leaves us continually in awe as each bend reveals taller and wider trees than before. The trail drops us off at Redwood Creek where we splash in the water looking for tadpoles and frogs before ascending back up to the parking lot.

We pause in the afternoon to eat lunch at Dolason Prairie and recharge in anticipation for a sunset walk along Gold Bluffs Beach. Typically, the ocean winds drive moisture and clouds into the coast, but tonight only a low lying bank of clouds stands on the horizon meaning the rocky bluffs of Gold Bluffs Beach are ablaze in a show of gold and green. We arrive just as the sun sparks the coast and stay beyond sunset into blue hour.

Day three begins with a thirty-minute dirt-road drive along Davidson Road. Soon into the drive, we spot a lone black bear crossing the road in front of us. Normally, these elusive bears dart and disappear into the woods, but for some reason this one is curious enough to walk along the road as we drive offering picture perfect poses—another bucket list photo to check off.

One of the first to arrive at Fern Canyon, we take to the trail at 9:00 a.m. The map shows the canyon to be just a tenth of a mile down the trail, but each bend has us wondering if we missed it. At last, the path bends right and opens up into a secluded high-walled stony canyon that is replete with ferns. Reminiscent of William Morris wallpaper, foliage patterns every square inch of the walls with a simple shallow creek running along the bottom. This oasis doubles as a watery playground for young hands and feet to splash around in. Golden rays filter through the canopy and light up ferns here and there in shocks of green as a soft breeze flutters the hanging fronds. The canyon literally overflows with life and growth and movement.

At the back of the canyon we ascend a few short switchbacks to make our way up, out, and around the canyon. But at the top, a heavy rustling in the bushes catches our ear. Mere feet from the trail a cow elk emerges from the shrubs. Taken aback by the size of her, we withdraw back along the trail only to find the entire forest is alive with rustling. Ten cow elk have taken up residence in this patch of forest for a midday meal. Everywhere, elk heads pop up from grazing in an unbelievable sight. Just when we thought we had seen the best of the elk already, Redwood National Park surprises us once again.

Back at our campsite that afternoon, we walk over to the neighboring Prairie Creek Visitor Center and take to one of the many nearby trails. Foothills Trail winds us over, around, and literally through old growth redwoods along Prairie Creek, across the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway, and drops us at the foot of Big Tree Wayside. At nearly 24 feet wide and 1,500 years old, Big Tree is one of the largest and oldest trees in the park. The spectacle is staggering. Peering into its upper branches is simply dizzying. We return to our campsite via the Foothill Trail loop to clean up and head into Crescent City for dinner. Upon returning we light a fire that carries us into night as stars emerge one by one.

Though our final morning brings fog and drizzle, the wildlife are as active as ever. Again, a herd of bull elk perfectly pose and graze in the prairie across our campground as we make our way to our last hike along the trails of Prairie Creek. In a final hurrah, the wet damp weather even coaxes out the shy banana slugs from among the rotting leaves on the forest floor, another wildlife bucket list item. The morning grows short, so we return to camp and pack up to head home. We make our way back up the coast driving the scenic byways and stopping to view roadside attractions before saying our final farewell to Redwood National Park. En route to the airport, we all agree this park has earned its place among America’s most beloved parks.