. . . if this trip proved anything it’s that Sequoia has much more to offer than simply large trees. It makes us wonder what else the park is hiding.

August 31–September 2, 2024

We are driving back from the eastern backcountry of Kings Canyon National Park on our way to Sequoia National Park. Turning up Generals Highway, we make our way past Lake Kaweah and the small town of Three Rivers. The road winds us up scrubby foothills in an infinite amount of switchbacks. Soon enough the grassy hills give way to forested mountains as we near the height of the highway. Eager to get out and set foot in a Sequoia forest we make way for Crescent Meadow. But with sunset fast approaching we wonder if Moro Rock would be a better use of the light.

As time would have it, it turns out every other visitor has the same idea. With parking at a premium, we grab an open spot on the side of the road and get swept up in a mob descending on Moro Rock. People of all ages, ethnicities, and abilities press their way to the trail. Caught in a single file line we slowly make our way up the narrow quarter-mile staircase to the top of Moro Rock, and it is no wonder why this site has garnered so much popularity. Stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding park catch the last rosy pink shades of sunset as the sun dips below the western horizon and the Pacific Ocean beyond. In the distance we even see the flames of a wildfire burning to the south adding to the hazy red glow of the sun.

A bit overwhelmed by the sheer number of people we encountered on Moro Rock, we head to site 143 at Lodgepole Campground and vow to wake up early to avoid the crowds. The next morning we are up and out before dawn. We drive 15 minutes to General Sherman Tree first expecting the largest tree on earth to draw the most people as the day begins. We are among a handful of visitors and have the place to ourselves. The massive presence of General Sherman is staggering to behold. It doesn’t even seem treelike—more rocklike in its weight and girth. It’s hard to even fathom it is a tree.

After a few quick pictures to document the moment, we are on to Big Trees Trail with dreams of catching first light on the giant sequoias. The three-quarter-mile trail takes us on a meandering loop around Round Meadow at the feet of many sequoias interspersed among the enclosing forest. Each turn deserves another photo as the morning sun ignites new trunks in a ruddy burst of cinnamon and orange. Fallen logs act as colossal bridges to be crossed or tunnels to be explored. The loop ends in a chance meeting with a mule deer patient enough to pose in the warm glow. We return to the car agreeing this trail redeemed our somewhat chaotic experience from the night before.

Convinced our stay will not be defined by crowds, we pause for some tailgate oatmeal and head to the Lodgepole Visitor Center to plan the rest of the day. Recommended by the rangers, we choose Lakes Trail in Wolverton, an 8-mile roundtrip route that leads us past an overlook called the Watchtower and on to Heather Lake in the alpine backcountry. Picked for its proximity and distance, we have no idea the beauty we are about to encounter. Assuming the Watchtower to simply be a retired fire lookout, we ascend the steep slopes of the mountain. About 3 miles downtrail, we break free from the forest and drop out onto a rock outcropping. With no structures to be found, we discover we are standing atop the Watchtower, a 1,000-foot tall granite precipice offering views of the valley below and the high Sierras above. And continuing on to Heather Lake only intensifies the dramatic beauty. Gorgeous panoramic views resembling Yosemite’s Glacier Point follow us around the mountain to the lake.

Energized by the unexpected views and a refreshing dip in Heather Lake, we contemplate plans to retrace our steps this evening for a sunset view atop the Watchtower. Though it adds roughly 7 miles to our already tired legs, we conclude the occasion demands it. We hike back to Wolverton and drive to Lodgepole to pick up headlamps, dinner, and a short nap before setting out for the Watchtower. After 3.5 miles we find ourselves the only ones at the viewpoint enjoying a camp meal as the last light of the day falls around us. The white granite from this afternoon lights up orange, then red, then soft pink before landing on a cool purple as the sun sets behind us. A moment of silence leaves us thinking there’s nothing like finding hidden gems like this to stoke our gratitude. This is the national park experience we all chase.

We descend the path back to Wolverton in the dark with nothing but a headlamp and good conversation to keep us awake and on trail—a perfect ending to both the day and our time in park. Parks named for a single feature, like Sequoia National Park, can be deceiving causing us to expect not much more than that single feature, but if this trip proved anything it’s that Sequoia has much more to offer than simply large trees. It makes us wonder what else the park is hiding.