I have to admit, my expectations were set low in anticipation of this park, but the views are actually quite stunning the higher I climb. I am reminded God imbues every bit of land with beauty, even the places I deem less favorable.

February 10–11, 2024

The goal of this trip is to hit Petrified Forest National Park on my way to Grand Canyon National Park in a roadtrip loop. Because Petrified Forest is a smaller park, I only expect to need a single day here so I only book a hotel for one night in Holbrook, Arizona, 20 minutes west of the park.

My drive to Petrified Forest National Park is almost 9 hours—10 with stops—so I leave my house extra early to make the most of my time in the park. Arriving late afternoon, I pass through the northern entrance and run into the Painted Desert Visitor Center for a quick orientation of the park before they close. Here, I learn the park itself, not just the visitor center, closes daily at 5:00 p.m. Thankfully, I can request a free permit to stay after hours to explore and stargaze. However, the ranger warns me once I leave the park I cannot reenter until the next morning at 8:00 a.m.

No longer rushed by the clock, I drive down Petrified Forest Road to Blue Mesa, one of the more scenic areas in the park. It’s cold and a light snow from a passing storm is falling as I pull into the parking lot. I don’t care to spend a lot of time here, just scope out the area. So I hike a quick loop around the small mesa. In just this short brisk walk, I encounter large slabs of fossilized tree logs, split up like sushi on a plate. The colors and textures are both beautiful and complimentary to the rugged, barren landscape around me—definitely worth returning to in the morning.

As sunset nears, I make my way back to Chinle Point, an overlook near the northern entrance with panoramic views of the Painted Desert. I’m hopeful this will provide a sufficient view of the sunset. Unfortunately, that snow squall wasn’t the only system moving through the area. While the sun plays hide and seek in the clouds, I patiently await the chance of golden hour on the pink hills in the distance. However, my patience is not rewarded this time. A bank of clouds in the west obscures the sun just as it sets over the land.

I jump in my car to warm up and prepare a light dinner as I wait for night to creep in. With my permit, in my dashboard I am allowed to stay for stargazing. And I’m in luck tonight. The clouds dissipate in the cool night air revealing a host of stars above me. Bundled up in snow pants and my heaviest coat, I set out to watch some stars. Still learning the ropes of astrophotography, none of my photos turn out well, but I enjoy the night wilderness to myself, before packing up and heading to Holbrook for the night.

The next day, I wake up early enough to check out of the hotel and hit the northern entrance right when it opens at 8:00 a.m. A little early, I wait in line for the gate to open. In time, it lifts and I cruise through the park. My goal is to park at the Historic Blue Forest Trail just opposite The Tepees, but first I have to stop at the Historic Route 66 marker, an old Studebaker rusting away to nothing on the side of the road. It doesn’t take long to pull over and admire the iconic marker. While it’s cold out, the sun is shining a warm glow over the land. No clouds in sight today.

Soon, I’m back on the road headed to the Historic Blue Forest Trailhead. After a couple passes I finally find the parking area—a simple pull-off on the side of the main park road. From here I pack up my gear and hit the 1.5-mile trail. Because it is an older trail, there are no markings making it difficult to navigate. I follow direction from an internet blog and make my way into the Blue Mesa badlands. Blue-gray striped mounds rise about me. I’m swallowed by the eroding clay hills as I hike up and up towards the mesa. In gulleys and crevices all around me, large chunks of petrified wood lay sprawled out. No two alike, it is fun to examine each as I pass by. I have to admit, my expectations were set low in anticipation of this park, but the views are actually quite stunning the higher I climb. I am reminded God imbues every bit of land with beauty, even the places I deem less favorable. I can see for miles as my eyes trace the path back to my car. Eventually, I make it up to Blue Mesa Loop Trail where I stopped yesterday. Here, I turn around and return to my car.

Continuing south along Petrified Forest Road, I drive to Agate Bridge, a roadside attraction known for a petrified log spanning a sand wash. Unfortunately, the scene is not as impressive as it sounds. Today, the log is held up by a support beam to recreate its glory days. A little disappointed, I quickly move on and drive further south to Crystal Forest. I only have an hour before I need to begin driving up to Grand Canyon.

Given my short timeframe, I’m grateful I chose to stop at Crystal Forest. The short paved loop is worth my time as it weaves in and out of some of the densest collections of petrified wood. Large chunks, small chunks, piles of shards line the pathway. It takes everything in me not to dig through and find a keepsake to take home with me. Each rock is fascinating and unique.

The loop comes to an end and I once again jump in the car and continue south. With not much time left to spare, I make one last stop at the Rainbow Forest Visitor Center before exiting the park on Highway 180 and returning to Holbrook. Was my time short in Petrified Forest? Perhaps. Could I have spent more time exploring the other attractions? Definitely. But did I get a good grasp of the park and its essence? You bet, completely worth my time. Now, on to the next geologic wonder on my itinerary: the Grand Canyon.