Time seems to slow down in an idyllic manner—a complete opposite experience from this morning’s sunrise scramble—and we are happy to savor every moment, thankful for a clear midwest sunset over Lake Michigan.

May 24–26, 2025

It is rare to travel to a park with nearly no context for what it has to offer. That’s where we find ourselves as we travel 4.5 hours north from Gateway Arch National Park to Indiana Dunes National Park. All we know to expect is a shoreline of dunes. Beyond that, we have no idea what we’re in for. We’re along for the ride. And speaking of ride, we finish ours pulling into Porter, Indiana, around 4:30 p.m. Like most parks, our first stop is the visitor center to pay the entrance fee and gather more info for our stay. The rangers suggest birdwatching, dune hiking, and beach strolling, and offer their favorite spots in the park.

With this guidance, we then make our down Highway 12 to Dunewood Campground. Along the way, we pick up a $20 wheelbarrow of firewood along the side of the road. Packed to the brim with wood, we pull into the campground and check in. The sky is brilliant blue. The campground host assures us the weather forecast predicts sun throughout the holiday weekend. Driving to site #9, we’re thankful we booked our reservation 6 months ago as we note the “campground full” sign on the side of the road. Because the forecast is clear, we take our time setting up camp, build a fire, cook hot dogs for dinner, and play a card game or two. We don’t feel rushed so we spend the rest of the evening watching the sun set through the trees planning our excursions for tomorrow.

Sunrise comes early. It’s 5:00 a.m. and we hop outside the tent ready to catch some morning light. . . only there’s one problem. The sky is a steely gray blanket of cloud. A bit disappointed, we shift plans and decide to birdwatch at the Great Marsh. As we get prepare to head out, something amazing happens. The haze above us begins to turn a bright red-orange. Suddenly we are reenergized and in a frenzy race down to the Great Marsh hoping to capture the moment as the sun peeps over the horizon and under the cloud bank. We drive a couple miles down the road and pull over next to an open marsh and scramble out. The sight is incredible. The entire sky is ablaze in yellows and reds, reflecting also in the water below. Like a pinpoint of light, the sun pierces the land only lasting a few more minutes. Then almost as quickly as it came, it subsides. The clouds return to their drab overcast coloring. So we set out in search for birds, thankful for our serendipitous timing.

Along the Great Marsh Trail we find wood ducks, geese, blackbirds, and off in the distance sandhill cranes, something I’ve never seen before. Not bad for a sleepy cloudy morning. Spending a good hour strolling the marsh and snapping photos we eventually return to camp for breakfast. A drizzle of rain sweeps the campground, but nothing worth complaining about. As breakfast wraps up, we head down to West Beach in search of the Dunes Succession Trail, a mile-long boardwalk up and over wooded dunes to West Beach. As we near the trailhead, we pass Long Lake and spot great white egrets far off. Not willing to give up a wildlife opportunity, I spontaneously park at the lake and whip out the camera. Around some trees we spy two more egrets closer up fishing for breakfast—a perfect opportunity for photos. Unaffected by my presence, I settle in and for 20 minutes capture some of my best wildlife photos.

Giddy at the encounter we continue on to Dune Succession Trail. The boardwalk features long stairways up and over the dunes. Following the path, we climb every step and arrive at West Beach around noon. The water is too cold to swim, so we throw a frisbee and skip rocks on the lake. About 30 minutes later, we notice blue sky poking through the haze—a promising sign for sure! Soon the clouds dissipate altogether bathing the beach in warm sunny light. I guess the campground host was right after all. After some time on the beach we return to camp for lunch and spend the afternoon resting from the early morning. Sun streams once again through the trees. With no clouds in sight we feel reassured of a clean sunset tonight.

About 6:00 p.m. we make our way east up Highway 12 towards Mount Baldy, a 126-foot dune right on the coast, offering great views of the Chicago skyline under a setting sun. Though the summit of Mount Baldy is closed for protection, the dunes along the beach are enough to feel immersed in the dune atmosphere we have come to learn as iconic of this region. Tall green grasses line yellow sandy ridges. Deep blue waves crash upon the shore. A yellow sun westering in the sky sinks lower and lower ready to ignite Chicago. Time seems to slow down in an idyllic manner—a complete opposite experience from this morning’s sunrise scramble—and we are happy to savor every moment, thankful for a clear midwest sunset over Lake Michigan.

Our final morning in the park comes early again. This time, the sky is a pale blue, devoid of clouds. Excellent. Driving back down to West Beach, we find the coast all to ourselves. Taking advantage of the empty shoreline we capture some golden hour photos and hop back in the car. On the way back to camp, we take a detour at Paul H. Douglas Trail, recommended for its potential wildlife. Once again the only ones on the trail, we walk the sandy paths through oak forests. Though wildlife remains elusive, the wildflowers do not. An incredible display of purple wild lupines covers the forest floor—one of the perks of risking the late-Spring weather. Content with the flowers, we return to the car, drive back to camp, and begin packing up.

Our time in the park comes to a close. For not knowing what to expect in such a park, we are all pleasantly surprised at everything Indiana Dunes can offer. No, it is not Yellowstone or Grand Canyon, but it does provide an excellent retreat from city life only an hour away from the bustle of Chicago. The lazy marshes, the warm glow of sunlight on sand, the soft rustle of grass all draw out a quieter pace of life, like some romantic escape to Prince Edward Island or a cozy coastal scene from England— but it’s all right here in the heart of the American midwest.